![]() ![]() It might mean the deck is bad by concept. Usually it goes like this: you make a draft, you try it out, and you balance between cards that support you winning vs cards that support you not losing (attack vs defence, draw vs consistent board presence etc.) If your deck has negative win rate, it doesn't mean you built it badly. You will be able to track down what to opt for after a bunch of matches each time, and by sheer method of elimination you will define the proper build for your deck. Once you have that out of the way, deck building is easy. ![]() Understanding why you lost a given match is a very layered issue that is the essence of the whole genre. Once you know what decks/cards offer superiority in a certain aspect (best healing, earliest OTK, best board presence etc.) you will be able to do the most important and the most difficult thing in a card game - understand the reason you lost a given match. Honestly, it's just awareness of the entire cardpool and deckpool. I'm not really a deck builder but I can pilot decks very well even after just a couple games so take my words with a grain of salt. Play multiple games with the same deck and see what is a consistent factor in a loss, and what is one in a win. ![]() If your deck has a lot of draw already and your first game you get no draw your problem isn't that you don't have enough draw but it might look like that and then you'll add too much. Look for what you're struggling with every game, is it draw? Is it just not enough chip? Is it survivability?ĭon't play one game and look at what went wrong because one game can be an outlier. Once you build your deck you just have to play it and tweak it. For tempo your core would be your main build up card and your mechanics would be cards that directly build into that specific card. For control your core would be late game cards that have cool effects and your mechanics would be cards to get you there through survival. Now you can alter this a bit for different archetypes like control and tempo wouldn't have rhe same thought process. They're there just to support you in case you find yourself to be in a pickle. These are interchangeable and you don't have to use any of them and should probably mot use multiple of them. These should all be cards that either are a fall back or some early cheap clear that you can use to push the aggro. For this it's very loose but cards like castelle, Tam lin, carbuncle, filly, rayne etc. Lastly is your support, for fairy it would be things to bounce, early board clear, safety nets things that will allow you to keep up pressure or a fall back if you can't close a game fast enough. Once again, irreplaceable and is the meat of your deck. These will directly contribute to your win condition and allow you to make full use of your core, and provide pressure for when you use your core. Stuff like aqua fairy, wildflower tiger, aria, fairy funfact etc. For this you want fairy generators and board stick. These are the core of your deck that the whole thing will revolve around. The core for this deck would be shining valk and nobilis, for the storm and chip damage they provide, and plumeria. Basically everything that isn't the meat of your deck and can be replaced freely.įor example, a fairy forest deck has its win condition of early game chip damage and a strong board to close out games with storm or a board before the enemy can get up to speed. The support, which is cards that will provide support to you in terms of either surviving long enough to get your win condition or providing extra draw etc. Cards that will directly contribute to your win condition. Which is your support to reach that win condition. You find the card or cards you're going to use to close out the game. The core of the deck, which is your main win condition. What helps me a lot is breaking it down into parts. I'm not a very good deck builder and struggle with it myself too. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |